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When compiling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning establishments. However, nestled prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I’m utterly astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic honour.