Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 cities internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always shaped its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from morning until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to explore these tales and travel to the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
